Overview
- Gets shade around 11am
Gear
- 60m rope
- Double #0.3-3, one or two #4’s
- Nuts
- Crack gloves
Getting there
Parking: Google Maps
From the middle of the wide pull-out on the right side of the Southside Drive, hike into the woods for ~100 yards passing a climbers’ information sign. Turn right on the Valley Trail (main thoroughfare). In about 200 yards, you’ll pass the first turn off on left (marked with a post with a carabiner sign). Keep going straight. In another 350 yards, you come to the second left turn off marked by another post (which was missing its carabiner symbol). Turn left and hike uphill for about 100 yards to the foot of the Middle Cathedral Rock (another carabiner post). Turn right and meet the start of the route in about 70 feet. Look for an obvious, right facing dihedral (chain anchors visible ~110 feet up, just left of the dihedral).
Approach in mid-April
P1 – 5.9
Crux pitch. Begin in a right-facing corner on the right side of the pillar. Climb this slick corner to a final difficult move pulling onto the pillar itself. Belay at bolts.
Start of P1 
End of P1
P2 – 5.9
Head left and up a great 5.9 finger crack system to another bolted belay.
Start of P2 
End of P2
P3 – 5.8
Continue up through a 5.8 roof and then up a 5.8 OW (~50′ of 4″ crack, extra #4 makes this feel safer) to another belay. This pitch and the next are probably the best on the route — save a bigger cam for above the roof.
End of P3
P4 – 5.8
Climb sweet twin cracks up to another bolted belay.
Start of P4 
Midway up P4 
P5 – 5.9
Continue up one more pitch (beginning with a chimney) of nice cracks to a final belay.
End of P5
Rappel
6 raps with single 60/70.