This was our last climb in Todra Gorge, and the best climb!! Every pitch has good climbing, no traversing nonsense, straight up, super well bolted, 5 min approach and a 35 min walk off! We linked 1-2, 3-4, 5-7 (10 ft of simul), and 8-9 with a 70m. I brought 17 draws (5 alpine), I’d bring a few more alpine but with skipping bolts I still ended with at least 1 draw left. P2 hand crack corner is awesome. You don’t need crack gloves but you could bring them if you have them.

Gear brought

• 70m rope
• 17 draws (including 5 single alpine, next time I’d bring 2 more alpine draws for linking)
• Milo radios (useful for linking to communicate)
• Shoes for walk off (chacos/tevas could be fine)

Linking

Here’s how we linked with a 70m

• P1-2: 66m, rope drag was noticeable
• P3-4: 65m
• P5-7: 75m (simul’d for 5 meters, rope drag was actually ok, simul was ok)
• P8-9: 65m

Approach

A truly grueling lengthy approach of 5 WHOLE MINUTES! 😛 This is the view from the road, simply walk across the river and up 20 yards! Route starts to the right of the bush (there’s a separate line that starts left of the bush).

P1 – 5.10b (6a+), 33m, 10 bolts ⭐⭐

This pitch starts off with a pretty difficult slightly overhanging stemming move with some thin finger cracks. We felt it was 5.10+ and the toughest move on the entire climb. But it’s only one or two moves and the rest of the pitch is easier, and you can pull on the bolt if you need to.

P2 – 10a, 33m, 12 bolts ⭐⭐⭐

The best pitch of the climb! Involves a ~25′ fun ~#2 sized corner hand crack, and it’s surprisingly smooth in the hand crack unlike the usual sharp limestone rock! We did a few hand jams, and quite a bit of corner stemming. Super well bolted, so even if you’re not used to hand jams, you should feel safe.

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P3 – 10a, ~25m, 8 bolts⭐⭐

A few challenging moves keeps it interesting. Got in a couple more hand jams and few delicate feet.

P4 – 10a, 30m, 11 bolts ⭐⭐⭐

A fun pitch with sustained stemming moves. Challenging but in a more technical then physical way. A little bit longer then P3, this pitch ends with a nice belay ledge. Used all but 1 draw linking the pitches. Lots of extra pitons that you could clip or pull on if you needed to.

P5 – 10a, 25m, 8 bolts ⭐⭐⭐

Work your way up the two cracks and then make a slightly tough move stepping around an overhang. The rocks were sharp at the start but then got really fun.

P6 – 5.9, 20m, 6 bolts ⭐⭐

Starts tougher and then gets easier, didn’t find it very chossy as Mnt project suggested. Semi hanging belay.

P7 – 10b, 32m, 8 bolts ⭐⭐

Starts easy and then a physical move on a overhanging dihedral. Finish pitch with more easy climbing!

P8 – 10b, 30m, 7 bolts ⭐⭐

Tough start leads to easier climbing, belay ledge is mostly good but it is a bit to the right (this is where Chibania merges with the route).

P9 – 5.9, 35m, 7 bolts ⭐⭐

Look out for a few loose blocks. There was two tricky 10a feeling moves mixed with easier climbing. Pretty nice belay ledge at the top.

Walk Off – 35 minutes

Scramble 15m up and then traverse right 25m to top out. Follow cairns for a nice and easy walk off!

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