A newer climb, more accurately rated (not sandbagged).
Gear
- Most people seem to bring double 0.1’s for the crux P3 5.10+ pitch
P1 – 5.10c
Clip a couple bolts then head left into a layback flake. Climb this until it seems like it’s going to disappear, then head right over a small roof, where you will find another bolt.
P2
Move over easy slab with bolts.
P3 – 5.10+
The crux. Move left from the belay up a steep arete into a corner. Move right out of the corner over steep ground to clip a couple bolts. Then head right again and up. Finish back to the left over steep jugs to a chain anchor.
Gear for P3
- “At least 2 blue aliens, would have placed 3-4 if I could”
- “I did use two 00 (0.1 cam) and 0 (0.2 cam) metolius” (solid 5.10 climber)
- “I had a single Red C3 #0.1”
- “single set of C3’s” (0.0-0.3?)
- “Double 0.1-0.2”
- Blue alien == 0.375″ (seems equivalent to 0.1)
- 0.1 Cam == 0.34-0.54 in
- 00 metolius == 0.34 – 0.47″ (equivalent to BD 0.1)
- 0 metolius == 0.39 – 0.59″ (possibly similar to 0.2)