Start date 20190803

Climbed with Liv and Cole and Alexis! Alexis was still getting over a cold, and we were backpacking and camping the night to do Vesper the next morning, so our hiking pace was extra slow, but we still finished ahead of schedule!

  • 5:30 start
  • 7:30 turnoff, stashing gear
  • 7:45 hiking
  • 8:30 base
  • 12:30 summit
  • 1:05 descending
  • 3:15 done rappelling
  • 3:20 heading back
  • 4:00 at packs
  • 4:20 hiking to camp
  • 5:05 at camp

Alexis and Liv led pitch 2, Liv lead the final pitch 7. Great climbing, definitely felt like an easy 5.10a, the 5.8 finger crack on True Grit seemed at least as tough for me!

Gear

  • We had 2 60m ropes, and did double rope rappels on P6 and P1 (didn’t skip any anchors)
  • I brought 12 quickdraws (6 standard, 6 single alpine), only needed 11 as others said, would have been good with just 3 alpine

Approach

Take the Sunrise Mine Trail to the final switchback before it goes up the steep series of switchbacks.

Near the base, spot the red gully, and make one quick class 4 move up it, and then a short easy class 3 scramble towards the left leads you to the base.

Spot out the lone pine tree and go to it… P1 starts just 10 yards beyond it.

Climb

P1

Some juggy and powerful moves at the start, and then more crimpy climbing on the arete. Easiest climbing seems to be just to the right of the arete.

Pitch 2

Short pitch with one crux move at the third bolt. Either go straight over the bolt, or off around to the right.