On Friday around 8 PM, we left for Indian Creek! We took the Subaru since my truck’s rear axle seal was broken and it was taking longer than expected to fix, but the Subaru got to all the trailheads fine!
We arrived around 3 PM and decided to camp in the official Creek Pasture campground for $15/night. We made a fire and roasted some brauts to have with our pesto pasta.
Sunday, October 18th
We went to two walls today…
Selfish Wall ⭐⭐⭐
The road to the normal parking was fine with just high clearance, but we had to walk the wash portion for 0.3 miles (so did everyone else, but my truck could have made that).
Hand Solo – 5.9 ⭐⭐⭐
We started the trip with Hand Solo again, a great short warm up hand crack. I got it clean and pretty easy this time, this time, only 1 #1 and 3 #2’s.
Unnamed – 5.10 ⭐⭐
Then we tried a new route. It’s a super varied route, it starts up two series of short #3 corners with mantles at the top of each, and then a technical face #0.5 crack followed by a little #1 jamming. The crux technical face moves has a ledge to deck on, so that keeps it at only 2 stars. Used 2 #0.5, 1 #0.75, 2 #1, 2 #2, 1 #3, wanted another 0.75. Nearly fell on crux. Morning shade tree!
Breakfast Social – 5.10- ⭐⭐⭐
Then we did Breakfast Social again (a lean back), last time I fell at the top, this time I got it clean but it was still really committing at the top! Used 1 #0.4 and 3 #0.75’s.
Solo West – 5.11- ⭐⭐
Then we walked all the way around to the left side of the crag where it was shady and tried another new one, Solo West. The start is super tough, and overall I hung about 10x. I used 3 #0.75, 5 #1, 3 #2 and 1 #3 was exactly right. If anything one more #2. Starting overhang is really tough, then long #2 section, then end tight #1’s. Shaded till noon!
Reservoir Wall – Pente – 5.11- ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Then we went over to Reservoir Wall to try Pente, a crazy long #1 face crack that people bring 10 or 11 #1’s for! The start is the crux, follows a broken crack system, but then it turns into a straight vertical exact #1 size crack for a super long ways… the entire climb is 160′ and you need two ropes to get down.
As I was climbing the long face crack, I dropped one #1 and had used up all of my other #1’s as I was nearing the top of the face crack. I was hoping after I mantled up the ledge it would turn into the 0.75 and smaller section, but when I got up to the ledge, I saw another exactly #1 size corner crack… I had to go back down to get more #1’s. But I was about 12′ above my last piece, and ~120′ off the ground. I managed to downclimb about 5 feet and then just had to fall the remaining 7 feet. I went quite a ways down with all that rope out, but it was a soft and clean fall. After recollecting myself, I had Alexis lower me some more and I grabbed the #3 and three #1’s and started working my way back up the crack (but it was so exhausting, I could barely climb back up it).
With my fresh set of cams, I aided up the #1 corner crack (it starts off a ledge so I didn’t want to risk decking with all that rope stretch), and then got to the #0.75-0.5 corner/slab section. I aided up quite a bit of that too, I was exhausted. Alexis struggled at the bottom broken crack section but then cruised up the rest.
Monday, Oct 19th – Optimator ⭐⭐⭐
On Monday, we went to Optimator wall, which also was fine in the Subaru, required a bit more careful navigation but nothing bad and prolly didn’t need AWD.
Lady Pillar – 5.10- ⭐⭐⭐
We started the day with Lady Pillar, a climb we had done before. It’s a long, varied route, some jamming, some technical moves, some corner crack. Pretty decent warm up, still some tough moves though and long. I brought same gear as last time but maybe double #0.75-1 would be nice, maybe even triple 0.5. Ends in 3 #3’s. Anchor has clips! Not a good continuous TR route though as the follower needs to clean the gear.
Soul Fire – 5.11- ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Splitter #1 crack! Took 5 hangs (mostly near end) and pulled on #0.75 to anchor. One #4 at top, then 3 #2’s (two at beginning and one midway), and 6 #1’s (bumped one), and 2 #0.75’s at end (2 was plenty even when just pulling on them). Good length crack, slightly small, nearly vertical wall (177 degrees).
Casey’s Route – 5.10+ ⭐⭐
A more technical climb. I couldn’t get the #0.5 crux 2/3rd’s up so just pulled on pieces. Used 2 #0.5, 3 #0.75, 4 #1, 1 #2. Bring extra 0.75 and 0.5 to be comfy, maybe one #0.4. Kinda fun, just difficult.
Hayutake – 5.10+ ⭐⭐⭐
We saw another group doing this route on TR, and the guys were loving the face crack. The difficulty is getting up to the crack. I tried the direct start rather than the PG13 traverse, managed to reach a #2 overhead and then tried the 5.11 lean-back-to-roof-fist move but just had to pull on some pieces to get through. Once I got into the crack proper, it was quite cruiser and fun. It was a bigger crack (#2-3 size), but lower angle and feet fit really well so it was fun up there! If it wasn’t for the difficult start, this is so much fun for me!
Used #0.75 and #0.3 and #0.2, then #2+3, hung on roof, after that easier baggie #2 and a couple tight #3, and finally short #1’s and 1 #0.75 at end. 2 #0.75-1, 6 #2, 3 #3’s. More #2’s if anything. Fun after the low crux! Anchor has clips (so does Neat).
Tuesday, Oct 20th – Hike day
It rained overnight so we went on a hike, so much fun roaming around the cliffs in Needles!
Wed, Oct 21st
Donnelly Canyon ⭐⭐
36 hours after the rain, we went to the main popular climbing area since it was a weekday.
Elephant Man – 5.10- ⭐⭐⭐
This was a decent face-ish crack. Somewhat awkward start but nothing terrible, mostly #1 size, used 4 #1, 2 #2, and 2 #0.75, could have placed more #2’s or maybe brought extra #1 but it was fine. We would have done Chocolate Corner on the left too but a group hopped on it, and it sounded pretty miserable anyways.
Mr. Peanut – 5.10+ ⭐⭐
Idk why I liked this one so much last time. It’s okay, maybe I liked it because I got it clean last time. More technical/stemmy moves. Used triples of 0.3-0.5, forgot the #5 this time so wish I had one more 0.4 and 0.5. Couldn’t fit 0.75-4 anywhere. Hung once halfway up, super wide stemming and super wide right foot #5 at base.
Battle of the Bulge ⭐⭐
Pigs in Space – 5.10 ⭐⭐⭐
We did this one last time and it was pretty good, still about as good this time. Long! Clean this time! 1 #0.4 (at top), 1 #0.75 (midway up there’s a 6 ft consistent 0.75 crack), 4 #1’s, 4 #2’s (one just after the 0.4 at top), 2 #3’s. If pushing grade, comfy rack is 1 #0.4, 2 #0.75, 5 #1, 5 #2, 3 #3 (no need for other sizes, typically it’s all #1-2 varying size).
We both did a second lap on it and didn’t find it as much fun the second time 😆
With the TR still on Pigs, I tried New World Order on TR but it’s insane crazy hard and gave up (it’s supposedly only 5.11b/c).
Sinbad Wall ⭐
I’m not sure I’d go back to this wall, nothing super great left.
Tiffany’s Mall Tour – 5.10 ⭐⭐
This one was cool to do once, it has a face crack with a chimney right behind it, the top is all chimney technique with a few cams in the deep back crack but a bit runout. The stemming is definitely cool. Anchor is only a rounded bolt (no chains) anchor and kinda annoying. Got it all clean though! Used 3 #0.75, 2 #1, 3 #2, 2 #3.
Fission Quest – 5.10 ⭐⭐
Goodness this one was tough this time! Tougher than I remember (though it wasn’t the best day). Starting move is real tough, used a #0.2 this time at start. Needed an additional 0.75 for the ending 0.75 (super tight #1 fit). Anchor is annoying. Fun to do once. Used 1 #0.2, 2 #0.75’s, 3 #1’s, 2 #2’s.
Thu, Oct 22nd – Sparks Wall ⭐⭐⭐
We went to a new wall today, this wall had cliff houses just 200 yards away!
Sparkling Zygote – 5.10- ⭐⭐⭐
I liked this route, it has two cracks of varying size, but in general more #2 size so Alexis didn’t like it as much. Some face crack with some corner and a variety of sizes. I used 4 #1’s and 1 #2 and 2 #3’s, I brought 4 #2’s and 3 #3’s and 1 #4. Getting to anchor is sorta tough though 😕
Skraps – 5.9 ⭐⭐
Mediocre lean back, crux is getting to the anchor. Kinda tricky, two committing lean backs, brought triples of #0.4-0.75 and double #1, that was about perfect but if pushing grade bring extra 0.5-0.75.
Scenic Line – 5.10+ ⭐⭐
Another challenging lean back (with some tight corner jamming). Brought 1 #0.5, 2 #0.75’s, 5 #1’s, 3 #2’s, 1 #3, bumped #1’s in lower section but ended with one extra #1. Hung several times in lower, top half is easier. so-so anchor.
Go Sparky Go – 5.11c ⭐⭐⭐
As we were leaving, we ran into a solo climber who got here a day earlier than his partner, so he was looking for someone to climb with. He offered to lead Go Sparky Go, so we let Nathan lead it and then I tried TR’ing it! It’s pretty awesome! If it was longer it’d be 4 stars.
I got it clean except had a slight hang when I reached my hand out to the finishing corner, lowered again and got it clean. I think I could lead it but would need to rest before the final move. Pretty sweet!! Wide part in middle isn’t too bad. 3 stars since short.
Fri, Oct 23rd
Cliffs of Insanity ⭐⭐⭐
We slept in a bit and then headed for one of our favorite walls, Cliffs of Insanity.
Dread Pirate Roberts – 5.10+ ⭐⭐⭐⭐
We loved this one last time, and it was just as much fun! Super technical first half and then cruiser 10 feet of #2 face crack at the top. I got it clean this time! Bottom half is so tricky and technicial. Used 2 #0.5, 4 #0.75, 2 #1, 3 #2. If #2 size is challenging, bring an extra #2, and maybe bring extra #0.5-0.75 if pushing grade.
True Love – 5.10+ ⭐⭐
Then we tried a new one that didn’t have any photos and wasn’t as popular. It was a much more technical, sporty climb on small gear. 2.5 stars, worth doing once, fun technical moves with rests, small gear, #1 at start (bump or bring several), then I double backed two 0.75 (could even use a #2 I think) and a 0.5 a bit higher and then #0.2 and two #0.3 and two #0.4. Technical moves with lots of foot rests. No clips on anchor.
Princess Buttercup – 5.10- ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Then I did one of my favorites again, this one has a #4 butterfly move at the start and then lots of stemming and interesting moves, I really liked it again! Alexis skipped it this time since it wasn’t her favorite last time. Fun and varied, wide #4 at start with some stemming, then #1 lean back with good hand holds, a bit of wide #2 to #3 face crack and some #2 corner at top. Used 0.75-4 with only triples #3.
Reservoir Wall – Excuse Station – 5.11 ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Then we headed back to Reservoir Wall for the other insanely popular #1 face crack climb. This one’s on the far left and has its own approach trail.
Another group was already climbing it, so we had to wait a bit, but this worked out really well since they gave me three extra #1’s, bringing me up to 9 #1’s which was exactly perfect!
I had only one hang 2/3rd up! Used two #0.75 at start, then 9 #1’s and managed one #2, then two more #0.75 and one #0.5 at top. Worked quite well but I’d bring 5 #0.75 and 9 #1 (or more) and 2 #2.
The hands were very tight, usually tight #1’s, and the entire crack consistently leans which makes getting good jams more difficult, and there’s basically no rest at all. Still pretty sweet though.
Sunset and home
The last night treated us to a nice sunset and a warmer evening. We stayed up late with the fire and then slept in before our long drive home. Such a fun trip! And we got the vegan sandwiches from 98 Center Moab for lunch, so good.