Start date 20220108

This climb was sustained and tough! Full body workout! Tons of stemming, good amount of hand jams (definitely crack gloves needed), overall quite good (but difficult) climbing.

Gear brought

  • Doubles #0.3-3 and single #4
    • Used all but like a 0.3 and 0.4 and the #4 on P2
    • Used the #4 on pitches 3, 4, and 6 (and possibly P5 too)
  • 11 draws (8 single alpine,1 double alpine, 2 sport)
    • Used all draws on a couple pitches, possibly would bring one more alpine or sport. One double alpine was perfect.
  • Nuts
    • A small nut was critical on start of P1, and then placed a single nut on a few other pitches.
  • Crack gloves
  • NO walkie talkies – Communication was ok, sometimes a bit difficult to hear but could hear shouts
  • 60m rope + 70m rope (ditched 70m at end of P3), was useful to haul the backpack up on the second rope on P2 too
  • Small backpack for Alexis (hauled it up P2 and P6)

Overall notes

  • P1 start was SCARY, probably still ground fall with the nut I placed, but eventually after 5 minutes I found the correct slab move and then it was okay.
  • P2 was like constant boulder problem after boulder problem with some hand jams, toughest in second half, and finishing move is really tough (have to be turned to the right at the finish, I initially was turned to the left and then eventually had to take one hang and then noticed I should be turned to the right)
  • P3 was insanely short, 5th class, and traverse over to anchor is only 4th class and way easier than it looks.
  • P4 was meh climbing up a typical crack buttcrack, some awkward moves
  • P5 leanback was pretty good, has some rests but also some sections you just have to keep moving through and then get to the rest.
  • P6 was super tough at the end, really pumped at that point, but there are big juggy holds (just not great feet).
  • Anchor at the top is pretty awkward to belay from
  • Belay ledges were otherwise quite nice and usually good ledges
  • Rappels were quite nice!

Approach

After 20min on the nice flat trail we headed for a gully and slab system that ended at the base of the climb.

P1 – 5.8, ~150 ft

5.8 slab pitch, the start was definitely spooky with good ground fall potential till you’re able to get onto the first ledge and clip the first bolt. There are good holds but it took a little searching to find them. Was able to get in a nut and cam before making the move to the first ledge, still most likely would have been a ground fall. After the first ledge there were two bolts, a ledge and another bolt before you reach the anchor. We tried to keep going to the base of P2 but the ledges and bolts created a lot of drag.

Scramble to P2

Basically just a class 3 scramble but definitely exposed!

P2 – 5.10c

P3 – 5th class, ~50 ft

Pitch 3 climbs easy terrain up and behind the little tower and then climbs on top of the tower before doing a 10 foot traverse right on easy 4th class ledges. The traverse looks intimidating but it’s super easy.

P4

This climbs up a typical crack “buttcrack”, has some awkward and some slightly challenging climbing. It has a bolt to protect the start! And some really pretty crystals at the start!

P5

Pitch 5 starts with a leanback crack corner, it’s actually quite a good leanback! After placing your first piece, it’s best to just keep moving till you get to a good foot rest before placing another piece. After the corner, it climbs through some easier terrain and a few loose blocks to the anchor ledge.

P6 – 5.9

Pitch 6 ends with some more bouldery moves and an overhanging juggy finish with limited feet.

Summit

It’s a small little tower!